Carolyn Tillie's Ultimate California Wine Blog

Selby - 186

Downtown Healdsburg is a lovely place to visit; full of quaint shops, delightful art galleries, enticing restaurants, and a handful of tasting rooms. However, if you limit your jaunting to only the square, you will undoubtedly miss one of the best selections of wines -- not only in the neighborhood -- but in California. Selby Winery has their tasting room a few blocks off the main shopping drag and is definitely worth looking for; almost hidden by overgrown trees just a few doors down from the fire station.

I was there on a week day and the tasting room was bustling! Full to the brim, Amanda was aptly handling the large crowd. I was patient and waited for it to quiet down. I was fortunate to taste through the entire line-up of Selby wines for a related article I've been working on, as well as having the opportunity of meeting Susie Selby in person.

She is diminutive in stature and has a personal warmth that immediately exudes charm and grace. She initially came to Northern California to help her father out in a small custom-crush winery (those are the kind where serious amateurs make wine for fun). Susie got so enamored with her father's obsession, that it encouraged her to get a job in a local tasting room. When the bug really hit her, she began serious studies while working as a cellar rat, eventually becoming an assistant winemaker. Now with her her own label, she is entirely self-taught, learning the entire wine industry from the ground up, literally.

Since her first vintage in 1993, she has built a reputation that includes having her wine served at the White House on multiple occasions. Robert Redford is so impressed with her winemaking style that she has been contracted to produce the Chardonnay for Redford's Sundance resort. She has a tasting room (decorated with fabulous art by Clay Vajgrt), and a thriving winery producing 15,000 cases. What impressed me more than anything is the overall quality and integrity of the wine and the fact that Susie is not afraid to take chances as is depicted in experiments along the likes of a Malbec and a Syrah rosé, wines that are just plain fun to drink.

2004 Sauvignon Blanc - Crisp, clear kiwi and pineapple tones without being harsh or strident. $13.00

2004 Rosé of Syrah - The color of a sparkling, almandine garnet. An enchanting rosé because of its varietal integrity, Laura makes this wine solely because she likes to drink it (god bless her!). Explosive cranberry and pomegranate flavors behind a fresh, clean berry aromas with hints of white flowers. Nothing cloying or sweet, this wine is clean, fresh, and crisp. $13.00

2004 Chardonnay, Russian River - Intense nose of kiwi and white melon with a whisper of white peach. Crisp entry and some cream on the mid-palate that is opulent and engaging. Going away from the more butter-rich Clone 4, this is a wine made from the muscat chard of Dijon and Spring Mountain. $28.00

2004 Pinot Noir, Russian River - Heady perfumey aromas of cinnamon, clove, and cherry. The mouth fills with spicy, cinnamon-covered red hots that is teasing and playful. The spicy fruit flavors are well-defined and invigorating. $32.00

2002 Malbec, Alexander Valley - I am such a huge Malbec fan and this does not fail to impress. Chewy tobacco with layers of soy and miso in the nose. The flavors are redolent with dark fruit, tiered with a rich mineral core. $28.00

2002 Merlot, Sonoma County - With 6% Cabernet Sauvignon and 6% Cabernet Franc. Redolent nose of black cherry and licorice with a whisper of dried herbs in the back of the nostrils. Black fruit and black pepper enter the mouth, teasing with a touch of plum liqueur. Big, chewy entry is smooth in the center with a perfectly balanced finish. $24.00

2002 Syrah, Sonoma County - 4% Viognier provides a hint of sweetness in this rich, sweet boysenberry wine. Jammy entry with a core of licorice and spice, medium-bodied and easy to drink. $24.00

2002 Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County - 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Malbec. Medium-bodied, terroir-driven aromas show herbs and cherries. Rich, sweet entry is smooth and toasty. Not overly complex or chewy, but great body and flavors. $24.00

2002 Zinfandel, Sonoma County - From 65 year old vines. Rich vanilla tones in a smooth, dark entry that displays sultry plum and spice notes. Jammy, spicy, toasty, and a hint of earth. $24.00

2002 Dry Creek Syrah, Vesenaz Vineyard - Only 150 cases made. Terroir-driven aromas with a heady liqueur of blackberry. Inky black red with an even, spicy core and supple, velvety finish. $32.00

2002 Sonoma County Zinfandel, Bobcat Vineyard - Leaving the grapes on the vines a little longer than usual, this is only the fourth vintage of this wine which has a tiny amount of residual sugar. Dark and spicy, the smooth and velvety mouthfeel is ever so slightly sweet, but not enough to coat the teeth. Smooth and intense, the flavors are defined and intense; quintessential zinfandel and after most of the tasting, a culmination in the example of the style that is Susie's wine. $32.00

2000 Sweet Cindy - This wine is an homage to Susie's dearly departed sister-in-law, Cindy. It is a blend of late-harvest Gewürztraminer and Sauvignon Blanc with grapes that are fully botrysized. Intense, dark gold orange color, there are hints of earthy, rustic honey with a core of pear. While the wine is sweet, there is a heightened acidity that provides perfect balance and clean flavor.  A bargain at $12.00

Selby Winery ~ 215 Center Street ~ Healdsburg ~ CA ~ 95448 ~ 707-431-1288
$5.00 for four tastes, although many additional bottles are often open and offered.

Paradise Ridge - 185

Barbara Drady, who owns Affairs of the Vine and the famous Wine Boot Camp, asked me to help her out this week run a corporate training, team-building seminar which is impressive on its own right. Ms. Drady sets these events up at various wineries but this particular training seminar was being held a winery I had yet to blog, Paradise Ridge Vineyards and Winery -- and what better excuse for me than to go early and check it out!

Getting to Paradise Ridge is a fascinating trip in that one drives around the recently-developed foothills of Santa Rosa, through industrial parks and track homes, by a large hospital and several hotels. Then there is a large, bent-metal sign with a road that suddenly manifests cows as voyeurs on your journey. Meandering and rugged, the landscape is suddenly rural, boasting large trees and native chaparral. Shockingly, set amongst the drying grass and native evergreens, sits a very bizarre sculpture -- a large bottle shaped out of copper or bronze from which prodtrudes a branch of tubes, culminating in bright blue hands... How very odd, one thinks. For me, how very exciting! I love stumbling on art, especially in unexpected places. As you continue to drive towards the winery, the collection grows as a large field on your left displays two 8-foot high pieces. Then another on your right - and another!

Have I discovered a secret garden of visual delights? Apparently so, but it is hardly a secret. Paradise Ridge's owners, Dr. Walter Byck and his wife Marijke Byck-Hoenselarrs have established this Sculpture Grove as an extension of the winery experience. From Gretchen Giles' article in Metroactive, "Involving some 12 Sonoma County arts organizations and 17 separate events... "Spectrum" - "Sculpture Sonoma" was conceived to be by artists, for artists. Byck and his wife asked more than 120 local sculptors to name those North Bay artists who most influenced them and whose work they most admired. From that list came the slate of professionals gathered in the "Spectrum" show. "Rather than let a curator decide, I let the artists decide," Byck says." Now here a reason to go back yearly! These are are not permanent sculptures, but a yearly installation.

Continuing through the expansive art collection, the road  culminates atop a hill where the winery tasting room sits alongside a few more additional permanent sculpture installations. However, an even better surprise awaited me. I had all this great art, I thought, how could it get better?

History! That's how... Paradise Ridge sits on the site that was once the historic Fountain Grove winery, noted for having been established and run by Kanaye Nagasawa, the distinguished Japanese winemaker in 1875. The champagne cellar of the current building houses archival pictures and a few artifacts and is a must-visit location for anyone fascinated with pre-Prohibition California wineries.

The Paradise Ridge tasting room is located on the upper floor of the two-story building. Practical, it is a room that is often utilized by wedding parties (and where our corporate event took place) so the tasting room easily expands into a banquet area. It has a fabulous view of the surrounding Santa Rosa valley and offers yet another surprise -- a sparkling wine!

1999 Blanc de Blanc - Only available at the winery, a slightly toasted, yeasty nose shocks with a clean, bright mouth entry of pineapple and lychee fruit. Slightly creamy finish delights. $25.95

2004 Sauvignon Blanc, Grandview Vineyard - Their first segue into the screw-top model of closures. Fruit forward with pineapple, pink citrus, and honey blossom, the dry, crisp entry is surprisingly round. The aromas hinted towards a strident harsh wine but the mouth feel is lush, round, and easy to drink. $21.95

2002 Syrah, Ladi's Ranch - Massive wild berries sits at the core with a whisper of spice in the nose. Medium-bodied, smooth and supple tannins continue the berry flavors with tiers of mineral and sage. $25.95

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, Rockpile Vineyard - Young wine showing green olive and tobacco. $33.00

2002 Zinfandel, Hoenselaars Vineyard -  Dense, dark aromas of sweet black licorice and black plum. Juicy and smooth with a well-integrated structure that will easily age. $25.95

2002 Inspirations - A fabulously expressive wine of 50% Petite Verdot and 50% Cabernet Sauvignon. Jammy and Petite Sirah-like in its dark blueberry core, but with considerably more richness. Smooth and velvety, this is a fascinating blend that is exceptionally easy to drink and appreciate. $40.00

Paradise Ridge ~ 4545 Thomas Lake Harris Drive ~ Santa Rosa ~ CA ~ 95403 ~ 707-528-9463
No charge for tasting.

Christopher Creek Winery - 170

I can thank the guys at Foppiano for directing me towards Christopher Creek. As they are located on a side road near Healdsburg, it is not a main drag of wineries that would normally see tourist traffic. However, some recent Wall Street Journal press provided accolades so that when I arrived, I was surprised to see a bounty of guests already camped in around the tasting bar.

Entrance to the winery is up a dusty dirt road that leads to a cluster of rustic, dark brown wood buildings. One is a home which I can only guess houses the owners of the winery. However, the other building is a large complex which contains the tasting room and the wine-making facilities.

Christopher Creek is known for Rhone varietals and even though Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon wines were available for tasting, I wanted to jump right into their specialty wines. It was not a mistake -- the Syrah and Petite Sirah were excellent examples of the local terroir and showed great deft and skill of the winemaker.

2004 Viognier - No malo and no oak, this wine showed a sweet nose of fresh apricot and a pale hint of spice. The mouth feel is rich with a reflection of the spice expanding to show white flowers and white fruit (peach and pear) in complex layers. $27.00

2002 Dry Creek Zinfandel - Medium body, showing a bouquet of strawberry, dark earth, and a bit of white pepper. A bit of funk of dusty twigs in the initial taste which was a tad on the hot side. On the young side. $26.00

2001 Russian River Zinfandel - Made from 30% Old Vines, this interesting wine contains a field blend of Zinfandel along with some Carignane and Alicante Bouchet. It is a medium-bodied Zin was extremely bright and young. Sweet jammy berry notes toyed in the nose, teasing with red candy apple aromas. Flavors of simple cherry that are easy and smooth. $26.00

2003 Estate Syrah - The nose fills with smoky black fruit; plum and blackberry. Flavors of black licorice and earthy dark fruit dominate. The earthy flavors combine some cocoa and and minerals, making an easy-drinking, medium-bodied Syrah of nice quality. $23.00

2003 Russian River Reserve Syrah - Intense dark spicy nose that continues into the mouth showing rich, rustic flavors of dusty floral and smooth, complex black fruit. $30.00

2003 Russian River Estate Petite Sirah - Rich, sweet aromas of smoky blueberry and cassis liqueur. Concentrated flavors of sweet blueberry with layers of tobacco and terroir. $30.00

2002 Russian River Estate Petite Sirah - Intense, dark purple color with magenta tones. Smoky aromas are complex and intense. Dark blueberry core of flavors easily displays how well this wine will age when tasted next to the '03. Similar flavors, but incredibly more defined and sculpted. Sold out.

Christopher Creek Winery ~ 641 Limerick Lane ~ Healdsburg ~ CA ~ 95448 ~ 707-433-2001

Foppiano - 169

My love of history brought me to Foppiano Winery and Vineyards. Someone told that it was the oldest family-owned winery in California. Well I knew it wasn't true (that honor belonging to the Bundschu family, dating their grape-growing history to 1850), but was still intrigued with the lineage which dates back to 1896 when Genoa native Giovanni Foppiano purchased and already working winery named "Riverside Farm."

Louis M. Foppiano, Jr., who took over the wine-making reigns from his father, still produces a second label wine under the Riverside name (although I didn't taste any). Much of the existing historical buildings can still be seen, as can a Southern Pacific Caboose (apparently the last of its kind), which has been converted to office space.

The tasting room is well appointed with many historical photographs and a very pleasant, helpful staff. The walls are bedecked with ribbons and behind the pouring counter lies the family history in bottles. In visiting this area, what I found most enjoyable was the effusive quality of the Petite Sirah -- three different wineries within a cat's throw all presented exceptional quality juice that I had to buy!

2002 Russian River Pinot Noir - Warm berry and sweet candy shop aromas. Easy mouth entry that is smooth and balanced with a bit of minerality on the finish. Medium-bodied and quaffable. $23.00

2002 Alexander Valley Sangiovese - Earth and cranberry and touch of funk. I think it was corked. $17.50

2002 Dry Creek Zinfandel - Warm, rich, sweet spice of cinnamon and clove. Pomegranate flavors on the mouth entry in this medium-bodied offering. The entry seems at first a bit soft but expands to s

how warmth and integrity. $15.00

2003 Russian River Petite Sirah, Bacigalupi Vineyard - Medium red color with some cloudiness. Blueberry liqueur and smoke in the nose. Easy entrance of blueberry that is dry in the mid-palate and tangy on the finish. $17.50

2002 Russian River Petite Sirah, Estate - Rich, dark blueberry. Intense, dark and hefty extolling virtues of smoke and spice and well-integrated oak. Complex and rich, the finish is brooding and hefty. $23.00

Foppiano ~ 12707 Old Redwood Highway ~ Healdsburg ~ Ca ~ 92448 ~ 707-433-7272

J Vineyards & Winery - 166

Frequent readers will recall how impressed I was with Mayo and their sumptuous food pairing. Working hard at experimenting and learning about good food and wine pairings, I am becoming more and more impressed with those wineries that go the extra step to showcase their wines with a savory morsel or two. And I'm not talking just a glorified cheese plate. Cheese plates are good and all that, but can actually detract from a wine by virtue of the fact that cheese coats your tongue and can conflict with a wine's taste. And I'm a huge cheese proponent.

But arriving at J, which shares a large entrance way with Rodney Strong, I had no idea that food was what lay in store for me. I was simply impressed with the entrance; a bridge over a small creek leading to the front door. The building itself is partially overgrown with vines and while the landscaping seems wild and unkempt, actually alludes to a state of elegance and artistry that await within.

There are a number of levels of tastings available at J and all of them involve food pairings. Not having an appointment for a sit-down tasting, the main retail room and bar is the beginning of what is a truly exciting experience. Of course the artist in me could not help but excited by the massive wall which stands behind the bar. Produced by Gordon Heuther, the giant wall is a seemingly constructed slab of brushed copper. Irregular and jagged holes exist through which protrude sharp, icy slabs of clear glass. Trying to concentrate on my wine, I was drawn to the wall and realized later that it was Heuther's work at Artesa Winery that had first drawn me to his work.

While gazing at the wall, a nice young man behind the counter started the tasting service. This was where the pairings came into play and surprised and enticed. Starting with their signature sparkling wine, the 1999 J Vintage Brut ($30.00) was served with small, crispy cups filled with shrimp ceviche. The wine is a cuvée of Pinot Meunier, Pinot Noir, and Chardonnay grapes. The wine had hints of white stonefruit on the nose. White pear presents itself more in the mouth with a rich, creamy mouthfeel that sweetens when paired with the slightly spicy ceviche. A brilliant pairing.   

While a more substantial pairing is available in a sit-down setting in the adjacent, Bubble Room, I continued with our progress. The second food and wine combination was a miniature cherry tomato, its top third sliced off to accommodate a dollop of rich, creamy hummus made with McEvoy Ranch olive oil paired with a 2004 J. Viognier, Alexander Valley ($30.00). Yet another inspiration. I somewhat suspected that the Viognier would be too sweet for the acidity of the tomato.  The Viognier is slightly viscous with a light peachy color, providing sweet, crisp aromas of orange blossoms, peach, and white flowers. The mouth entry was initially exotic with a touch of sweetness. What surprised me was how the hummus killed the sweetness and expanded the wine's richer flavors. Alternately, the wine tamed the smokiness in the hummus.

The next step in our tasting involved walking upstairs to a small, dark alcove that overlooks the production area. The third in our tasting series was a 2003 J Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley ($28.00) paired with small ovals of creamy polenta topped with sautéed crimini mushrooms which were cooked in a Pinot Noir reduction. The polenta had been prepared with a bit of jack cheese and the earthiness of the mushrooms was the perfect complement to the Pinot. The wine itself was a classic offering showing dark cherry and a hint of floral. The fruit flavors seemed more concentrated with the initial mouth entry and the earthiness expanded with the mushroom flavors from the polenta.

The last of our four-part tasting was a soon-to-be-discontinued 2003 J Zinfandel, Russian River Valley ($35.00). It seems this was the third production of a Zinfandel and each time, the fruit had to be sourced from different growers and that a consistent supplier never materialized. The Zinfandel was served with small crostini of Fromage Fort, a very creamy, strong-tasting cheese that had been piped onto the toasts, topped with thin slivers of Coppa salami. The wine is delightfully spicy with white pepper and cinnamon with a medium bodied core of dark red fruit. The finish showed a hint of smokiness and all the rich flavors, well integrated and balanced, paired perfectly with the strong, spicy bite of the cheese; the saltiness of the salami counter-balancing the pepper in the wine.

Truly a grand adventure to be had for a mere $12.00. The Bubble Room tastings are slightly more expensive; $35.00 for the sparkling vertical or $25.00 for the Pinot Noir vertical. Must go back often, as the menu changes seasonally, to try the others.

J Vineyards & Winery ~ 11447 Old Redwood Highway ~ Healdsburg ~ CA ~ 95448 ~ 707-431-3646

Rodney Strong - 165

Rodney Strong Vineyards' facilities shares a sweeping roundabout driveway with J Vineyards. I wasn't exactly sure if they shared corporate ownership or not, but the folks in both facilities assure me that they are separate companies and all they share is a grandiose driveway.  I'm sorry that my photographs of the interior were so dark and fuzzy. It is a very impressive complex with the tasting room centered around a walk-way of historical and wine-making information.

It is a facilities that sees a lot of guests and the layout is conducive to a high-traffic pattern. The walls that surround the tasting room not includes history of the Rodney Strong empire (extensive), but also information about the various appellations, and direct view of the expansive two-story high barrels. A worthy visit for one of the larger wineries in Sonoma County.

2004 Charlotte's Home Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma County - Lighter and more crisp than most with clean white melon aromas. Tight entry of grass and herbs with a lemony finish that is slightly acidic. $14.00

2003 Russian River Pinot Noir, Jane's Vineyard, Russian River Valley - Medium-bodied berry aromas effusive with freshness and a tease orange rind. Deeper mouth entry than the aromas portend with a few hints of chocolate. $19.00

2002 Reserve Pinot Noir, Jane's Vineyard, Russian River Valley - Decidedly earthier and more substantial than its predecessor. Rich dark berries and integrated earth aromas with a soft, supple mouth entry. Heightened mineral tones in the mid-palate and luscious, dark fruit finish. $35.00

2000 Symmetry Red Meritage, Alexander Valley - 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merot, 11% Cabernet Franc. Dark, black brambleberry with a layer of green bell pepper and dusty leafy twig aromas. Tight mouth feel, with some oak and plum, but needing more time. $55.00

Rodney Strong Vineyards ~ 11455 Old Redwood Highway ~ Healdsburg ~ CA ~ 95448 ~ 800-678-4763

Chateau St. Jean - 152

Château St. Jean ranks among the highest for quality Chardonnay. Just ask anyone who likes Chardonnay... Okay, I'm not a huge Chardonnay fan but I found many things to like at Château St. Jean. Perhaps it was the atmosphere or the congeniality. Perhaps it was because there is a sense of history or because I was weak and actually bought something from the gift shop. Whatever it was, I have a fine memory of my time at Château St. Jean.

Wine aside, the estate property is absolutely stunning. There are gardens that you have to walk through to get to the visitor's center which offer many exceptional vantage points for photography or for simply relaxing by one of the several ponds. The "Château" itself was built by the Goff family in the 1920s and has been lovingly restored and is where some of the offices exist as well as the Reserve Room tasting area.

Apparently if you are part of the Reserve Club, you can have access to a private terraced seating area for individual, table-side service. This picture was taken through a window of the Château, as though I was a Peeping Tom, peering at two lucky recipients of a private tasting. I'll be they also got to taste the wines I would have preferred to taste; Gewurztraminer, Riesling, Malbec, Viogner, and other Reserves...

The actual public tasting room is tremendously large and amply filled with a variety of products, much of the usual from clothing to wine-related gadgets. But I have to admit a confession. In my hundred-and-fifty-odd winery visits, this was the first time I actually bought something in a gift shop. In a corner, away from most of the expensive bounty, was a line of tin-and-enamelware kitchen gadgets. I purchased what looked like a pots de crème set, complete with rack (I say it looked like a pots de crème set, except that it wasn't porcelain). It was $10.50 for the set and while not politically correct for real pots de crème, it will suit me just fine. Oh yeah, and I enjoyed the wine too.

2002 Robert Young Vineyard Chardonnay - Classic lemon and buttery aromas. Oily mouthfeel upon entry showing dark papaya and mango. Rich, with a hint of lemon peel on the finish. $35.00

2003 Sonoma Valley Pinot Noir - Dusty, exotic aromas of incense - akin to sandalwood with a core of red fruit. Red fruit dominates the mouth entry and brightens with acidity on the mid-palate. Smoky finish. $19.00

2002 California Merlot - Black plum and brambleberry display in the initial whiff but subside to demonstrate eucalyptus on the end. Chewy, tight mouth entry that is full bodied and thick. Tad harsh on finish.  $15.00

Château St. Jean ~ 8555 Sonoma Highway (Highway 12) ~ Kenwood ~ 95452 ~ 707-833-4134

St. Francis - 143

St. Francis Winery is one of the larger, more well-known wineries established in the Sonoma area. It is a winery that was started in the early 70s and has grown exponentially, now negotiating grapes from top-shelf growers from all over Sonoma.

As an homage to St. Francis of Assisi, for whom the winery is dedicated, the buildings are distinctly modeled after the classic California missions that speckle the state. The facilities include three separate wine-tasting bars, visitors center, and surroundings gardens. The winery hosts of a variety of events including aroma workshops and taste explorations.

They offer three different tastings; the Classic Wine Tasting is $5.00 which is much of the standard wine found in larger grocery stores such as their Chardonnay or Cabernet Sauvignon, the Reserve Wine Tasting priced at $10.00 includes many of the more obscure grapes such as Viognier and Syrah, and a special Reserve Wine & Food Pairing which occurs every hour on weekends for $20 for four tastes and four bites.

I opted for the Reserve Tasting but plan on going back for the Wine & Food Pairing.

2003 Chardonnay, Behler Reserve, Sonoma Valley - Extremely lemony color shows tremendous, almost viscous buttery entry that has layers of green apple. The finish heightens with acidity and lemon tones. $22.00

2002 Pinot Noir, Neras Family Ranch, Russian River Valley - A potentially single offering of this varietal - the grapes were offered and because St. Francis had never produced a Pinot before, instead of adding to the expense of presenting a Pinot in a properly shaped Burgundy bottle, they instead simply bottled it in a Bordeaux-shaped bottle. Classic aromas of integrated earth and cherry, although the cherry seemed darker and a bit more cooked than usual. The mouth entry was initially sweet but blossomed to demonstrate darker mushroom qualities with a spicy, mineral finish. $30.00

2002 Petite Sirah, Zichichi Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley - Astonishing liqueur-like nose of a Zinfandel port. Intensely sweet nose of cooked black fruit with deep earthy notes. Balanced and well-integrated with a distinct, long finish. $40.00

2002 Zinfandel, Bacchi Vineyard, Russian River Valley - From 75 year-old vines. Jammy, smoky blackberry starts the bouquet which finishes with distinct minty eucalyptus and a depth of chocolate. Sweetish entry shows tastes of a tangy chocolate Andes mint. $35.00

2002 Zinfandel, Pagani Vineyard, Sonoma Valley - From 117 year-old vines. Lighter bodied than the previous offering, with bright, dusty violet aromas. Supple mouth feel that has a heightened acidic mid-palate but finishes long and smooth. $45.00

2001 Anthem Meritage, Sonoma Valley - A blend of Petite Verdot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot (in no particular order or volume). Aromas of intense spicy blackberry jam and dusty floral. While the aromas were exotic and enticing, the mouth entry is more simple and basic - a slight disappointment considering the aroma. Easy with some deep, well-developed herbal qualities. $55.00

St. Francis Winery ~ 100 Pythian Road ~ Santa Rosa ~ CA ~ 95409 ~ 707-543-7713

Blackstone - 142

Blackstone Winery is one that is prevalent in grocery stores -- at least their black label has been oft-seen by yours truly. Because of it, I was not necessarily looking forward to the visit, thinking I would be subjected to sub-standard grocery store plonk. However, there is a significantly larger production going on with a different label: Gold instead of Black.

While the winery produces the standards; Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, etc., I made a point of requesting tastings on those varietals not often seen in California tasting rooms. Looking back over my notes, the overwhelming factor that kept appearing is the "like factor" in that the Riesling was like a Sauvignon Blanc, the Viognier was like a Chardonnay, and the Dolcetto was like a Sangiovese. And I only tasted a small sampling of the wines which made me wonder how many of them were like other wines...

2003 Riesling, Cole Ranch, Mendocino County - Bone dry, supremely clean and crisp with a rich, citrus entry and more like a Sauvignon Blanc in its heightened acidity. $16.00

2002 Viognier, Russian River Valley - Mostly lemon up front in the nose but then showing some more integrated green fig aromas. Tangy entry, mineral mid-palate, and strident, stripped finish. $26.00

2003 Dolcetto, North Coast - Light in body and akin to a Sangiovese in its thin, cinnamon candy entry. The wine expands to show smoke but has a barely discernable cranberry finish. $18.00

2002 Malbec, Lake County - Inky black red color with a robust, meaty nose. Chewy entrance that dries a bit on the mid-palate. Overall a balanced wine. $18.00

Blackstone Winery ~ 8450 Sonoma Highway ~ Kenwood ~ CA ~ 95452 ~ 707-833-1999

Sunce - 41

One of the very last wineries I hit while perusing the Russian River Wine Road was Suncé. What I am beginning to learn is that there are a TON of wineries out there that I have never heard of, Suncé included. Just because I've never heard of it doesn't mean anything, because obviously a LOT of folks have -- they were packed and the party was going strong!

It is owned and operated by Frane and Janae Franicevic are Croatian in heritage as Suncé means "sun" and Dr. Frane Franicevic comes from a family that has a centuries-old winemaking heritage. And what a bright and shiny place this is, too!  Their tasting room is a small building nestled behind another set of buildings which I assume to be either their home or the winemaking facilities (or both!). The Franicevics have only owned the winery since 1998 (when it was known as One World Winery).

On the day of my visit, eight different barrels were set up for tasting outside under a tent (where there was also a huge bounty of edibles also being offered). The tasting room was jammed packed and behind the tasting building, a small 'blind' tasting was being offered to see if guests could guess the varietal! I tasted as much as I could from both barrels and bottles, but couldn't nearly get through all that was offered! Seeing how much there was to drink, I tried to stick to the more unusual offerings and would like to go back as the winery makes four different Pinots as well as Italian, Rhone, and Bordeaux varietals.

FROM THE BARRELS

2004 Zora's Estate Pinot Noir - Elegant spice that included cinnamon and nutmeg. Cherry entry that was tight upon initial taste and slightly acidic finish. Estimated price on release: $44

2004 Barbera - Fruit forward and ripe. Effervescent entry with a concentrated cherry and berry flavor. Estimated price on release: $25.

2004 North Coast Malbec - Extremely elegant clove and cinnamon spicy aromas. Hugh fruit entry gives way to dry, long-lasting finish. Estimated price on release: $34

2004 Russian River Hedin Vineyard Merlot - Young cherry and berry and a tad too bright to anticipate where this wine might be going. Estimated price on release: $35

FROM THE BOTTLES

2003 North Coast Barbera, St. Olof Vineyard - Bright, young cherry bouquer. Dry entry and a tight finish. $35

2003 Zemja's Blend Nebbiolo/Barbera - 50/50 blend. Odd aromas of medicinal-like hospital space. Tight and rather acidic.

2003 Field of Dreams Syrah - Huge, dark fruit bouquet. Elegant and spicy which turned candy-like. Great, opulent nose didn't deny the dark, opulent mouthfeel. $26

2002 Russian River Valley Les Trois Amis - A Super-Tuscan blend of 55% Sangiovese, 35% Merlot, and 10% Cabernet. A hint of green bell pepper gave way to balanced, exceptional layers of brambleberry. Great acids and structured finish. $65

2002 Sweet Zora, Syrah Port - Inky color. Sweet, sweet spice but not much depth. $20

Suncé Winery - 1839 Olivet Road ~ Santa Rosa ~ CA ~ 95401 ~ 707-526-9463

De Loach - 40

DeLoach is another in a long line of wineries with a well-known name. And, like many others, an established name I had yet to taste. It is a winery that has been around since the 1970s -- not something many wineries can lay claim to. This was a continuation of the open barrel Wine Road weekend tasting of the Russian River Valley.

One of the very charming elements of DeLoach for me was the physical building which is dark and slightly mysterious with shake roof and gated entries. The entry way is very much like a Japanese zen garden. Upon your entry is a Tanuki which is a raccoon/dog-like animal (much like a badger) who has much mythology surrounding him, most of which involve his jovial demeanor. He is seen in Japan mostly around drinking taverns and has been called The God of Drinking (mostly sake, but wine works just fine here).

Their wine offerings are extensive with a number of vintages available of Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Noir, Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, and a single vintage of Merlot. I found it quite admirable that multiple vintages are still available to taste as well as for sale. Many wineries library their older vintages to be sold at a later date for a higher price. It is extremely informative to be able to taste a number of years of the same wine in one tasting.

BARREL SAMPLES

2004 Pinot Noir, Clone 5, Russian River Valley - Bright, candy raspberry aromas. Effervescent upon entry and extremely fruit forward. Cherry mid palate gives way to a long, bright finish. Not yet priced.

2004 Estate Pinot Noir - Initial aroma and taste of a hint of green fruit subsides to produce a young berry and some cinnamon in the finish. More candy in the mid-palate. Not yet priced.

2004 Pinot Noir, Clone 667, Russian River Valley - Darker color and tone with layered, spicy aromas. Silky entry with an elegant balance. The dark, velvety finish continues but is punctuated with a bright note. Not yet priced.

2004 Pinot Noir, Clone 777, Russian River Valley - Thin, strident bouquet does not prepare for the candy-like mouth entry which turns dark and rich with blackberry and raspberry. Spicy, layered finish. Not yet priced.

FROM THE LIBRARY BOTTLES

1999 Gewurztraminer - Tropical fruit and peach aromas anticipate the sweet, full apricot and bubblegum tastes. Full entry and spicy finish are a bit sweeter than I normally like. There were no tech sheets available, but I would anticipate this wine having a residual sugar higher than 1%. <price given was a special that day -- sorry I didn't write it down>

2000 Chardonnay, Russian River Valley - Pale color. Vegetal aromas. Limp entry. <price given was a special that day -- sorry I didn't write it down>

1999 Estate Chardonnay, Russian River Olivet Ranch - Corked (but was being poured anyway). <price given was a special that day -- sorry I didn't write it down>

2000 Estate Chardonnay, Russian River OFS (Our Finest Selection) - Too much asparagus noise and thin entry. <price given was a special that day -- sorry I didn't write it down>

1999 Sangiovese, Los Amigos - Dark berry color with a hint of green bell pepper nose. Complex tastes of candied licorice, black pepper, and spiced anise. The spicy entry subsides a bit to reveal fruit at the end. <price given was a special that day -- sorry I didn't write it down>

2000 Estate Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley - A bit murky orange in color. Spicy nose with a sharp entry mellows considerably to produce even fruit. <price given was a special that day -- sorry I didn't write it down>

FROM THE TASTING ROOM

2001 Pinot Noir Estate - Strawberry and raspberry aromas anticipate the full, opulent entry. Spicy finish with a hint of vanilla. $18.00

2002 Pinot Noir Estate - Strong oak bouquet which subsides to produce some floral notes of rose. Thin entry rounds out more than I would have anticipated with a very dry finish. $18.00

2002 Pinot Noir O.F.S. - Perfumey, sweet overtones entice. Layered entry that includes black cherry and a tight finish. $30.00

1999 Port, Hook & Ladder - A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah, and Zinfandel, in the ruby style. Young cherry and berry is almost too sweet with a hot finish. $36.00

DeLoach Vineyards, Inc. ~ 1791 Olivet Road ~ Santa Rosa ~ CA ~ 95401 ~ 707-526-9111

Martin Ray Winery - 39

Martin Ray Winery was established in the 1940s and has a reputation for being one of the first wineries in California to produce vineyard-specific wines from his vineyards in the Santa Cruz Mountains. I stumbled on this winery while investigating the Russian River Wine Road and learned that it is now owned and operated by Courtney Benham. When I initially saw the sign, I assumed I was pulling down a road that held several different wineries. Only later did I discover that Martin Ray Winery is the parent company with a number of additional labels under their umbrella: Courtney Benham Wines, Angeline Wines, Mountain Wines, and Red (a jug wine).

Driving up to the winery, one is immediately taken with the extremely large, looming tower which bears the company name. As far was water towers go, it is pretty big and a great landmark for the winery. The actual tasting room lies back from the rest of the wine-making facilities and is pretty standard as far as buildings are concerned. Nothing flashy to set it apart. It is functional but I imagine that something is in store for the visitor area as the facilities were only just acquired by Benham in July of 2003 and upon my first visit, I had to fight smelling the wine through the fumes of the freshly-painted tasting room.

I love the history aspect of this winery -- it was initially established in 1881 as the Twin Fir Winery and is set apart by being the oldest continually-operating winery in Sonoma (they got through Prohibition by selling sacramental wine to Rabbis)! The winery became Martini & Prati in 1902 and remained that way until Martin Ray acquired it in the 1940s. For their price point, the wines show great potential however I believe a second visit will be needed as the smell of paint truly interfered with a proper tasting.

2002 Courtney Benham Winery, Sauvignon Blanc - Tropical fruit aromas couple with the same fruit in the mouth. Gives way to a hint of lemon in the even, acidic finish. $12.00

2004 Angeline Winery, Mendocino County Gewurztraminer - At 4% residual sugar, this was a candy shop of aromas and flavors including grapefruit, passion fruit, and floral notes. $10.00

2002 Martin Ray Winery, Russian River Valley Chardonnay - Citrus highlights the entry of a balanced wine that ends with a creamy finish. $16.00

2001 Martin Ray Winery, Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir - Orange and rather pale in color, some berry notes couple the toasted oak bouquet. Vanilla entry and layered fruit flavors finish with even more vanilla. $16.00

2002 Martin Ray Winery, Sonoma County Merlot - Black pepper and green bell pepper aromas somewhat overwhelm the hint of fruit underneath. Tight entry and pale finish. $16.00

2001 Angeline Winery, Paso Robles Syrah - Young, green fruit in the nose somewhat surprises the hefty, brambleberry mouth entry. The pale, uneven finish seems typical. $10.00

2000 Martin Ray Winery, Diamond Mountain Reserve Cabernet - Interesting that a Sonoma Winery's best effort is from mountain fruit in Napa. A hint of green bell pepper aromas subsides to produce exotic Indian spices that would normally be found in Hindu temples. Soft, silky entry somewhat contradicts a heightened, peppery tannic finish. Give it ten years. $70.00

Martin Ray Wines ~ 2191 Laguna Road ~ Santa Rosa ~ CA ~ 95401 ~ 707-823-2404

Battaglini Estate Winery - 38

Driving around the wineries of the Russian River Valley can be a bit tricky -- as opposed to the tourist-friendly Highway 29 in Napa, many of the Sonoma Wineries are not clumped together, clustered one after another like fine wooden soldiers. You have to hunt for them, driving down seemingly lonely residential roads. Battaglini Estate Winery is on such a road, barely marked with nary a painted line, I was unsure I was even go to find a winery... And there amongst houses and barns and abandoned farm equipment lay the markings of a winery. Nestled near an almost-falling dilapidated barn lies a cluster of small buildings which make up the tasting room, wine production facilities, and probably the very house where the owners live.

The estate has a lot going for it including historical vines dating back to the 1880s. The production is wholly and entirely Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, and Chardonnay -- rather unusual for what is getting to be known as Pinot country. Having made wines since 1994, the Battaglini family is close knit with father, "Joe," operating with wife, Lucia, at his side. Children Giulio, Lidia, Paolo, and Dino make up the rest of the staff; Sales and Marketing, Customer Relations, Finance, and Operations, respectively.

FROM THE BARRELS
On the day of my visit, barrels were out for samples. Being the red lover that I am, I decided to forgo the Chardonnay samples and headed straight for the Petite Sirah and Zinfandel...

2003 Zinfandel Reserve - Jammy nose anticipates the mouth entry. Extremely dark purple presents all the dark berries in the mouth; blackberry, boysenberry, and raspberry. Spicy, peppery finish. Not yet priced.

2004 Zinfandel Reserve - Overtly raspberry nose which gives way to darker cocoa tastes. Dry ending. Not yet priced.

2003 Petite Sirah - So dark purple, it was almost blue. Incredibly exotic spice combination in its bouquet, already velvety and smooth. Fabulous potential which I will definitely go back for when bottled! Not yet priced.

2004 Petite Sirah - Green, almost unripe aromas with very tight, highly tannic flavors. Minty finish. Not yet priced.

FROM THE BOTTLES
1998 Twin Pines Estate Zinfandel - Surprisingly light color for a Zinfandel. Candy shop bouquet which subsided to reveal some green fruit. Even entry with a dry, cocoa finish. This wine, specifically, was from the 1885 vines. $25.00

2000 Battaglini Estate Zinfandel - Bright berry bouquet with a hint of candy. Tannic and bright finish with layered, tight finish. $25

2001 Battaglini Estate Zinfandel - Complex spice qualities in the nose; cinnamon, clove, nutmeg. Dark berry flavors surprise the entry as it tends towards a brighter, dry finish. $25.00

2001 Late Harvest Chardonnay - Tropical fruit aromas subsided to produce a soapy smell, like Dove or something. Pale mid-palate and thin, soapy finish. $15.00

I was very sorry there were no bottles of Petite Sirah to sample on the day I was there!

Battaglini Estate Winery ~ 2948 Piner Road ~ Santa Rosa ~ CA ~ 707-578-4091

Siduri and Novy Family Wines - 36

Siduri is the name of the Babylonian goddess of wine. It is also an exceptional Pinot Noir producer in the Russian River Valley. But I didn't know until I visited their unassuming warehouse establishment that they produce more than Pinot. The first weekend in March is a free-for-all in the Russian River as over a hundred wineries open their doors and barrels for Wine Road -- a rare opportunity to taste from the barrels of local producers.

Siduri was my first stop due to their well-earned reception. I did not anticipate tasting more offerings than I thought possible. My surprise was due partly to the fact that this winery is not located in the standard overly-decorated, architectural edifice, but in an industrial complex. Also, there isn't just Siduri Wines, but Novy Family Wines. Siduri is the brainchild of Adam Siduri and his lovely wife, Dianna and Novy from Dianna's family. Two labels, but one family producing fabulous wine.

THE BEGINNING

2004 Novy 4-Mile Creek Red Table Wine - A combination of Pinot Noir, Syrah, Zinfandel, and Grenache. Immediate nose of manure and a harsh, acidic entry. $9.00

2002 Siduri Muirfield Vineyard Pinot Noir - From the Willamette Valley in Oregon. Young raspberry tones with a pale, thin entry and a mineral finish. $29

2003 Siduri Russian River Pinot Noir - From the Keefer Ranch and Sapphire Hill vineyards. Dark raspberry aromas. Herbal mid-palate. Tight finish. $19

2003 Siduri Rosella's Vineyard Pinot Noir - Initial aroma of minerals then dark, deep fruit. Slightly acidic in the mouth with goes away quickly but leaves a mineral finish. $34

2003 Siduri Garys' Vineyard Pinot Noir - From the Santa Lucia Highlands. Rich brambleberry nose which anticipates an opulent mouth entry and that blossoms. Long, berry finish. $43

2003 Siduri Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir - Astounding complex, rich bouquet of dark berry. A hint of bright acid heightens the mid-palate and lingers before revealing a cocoa finish. $29

2003 Novy Sonoma County Syrah - Chewy cherry backs away to reveal some spice in the nose. Rich, dark berry reveals heady, balanced tones with a hint of mineral. Exceptional offering. $19

2003 Novy Christensen Family Vineyard Syrah - Dark, inky color produces equally dark and creamy bouquet which subsides to reveal a hint of green berry. Mouthfeel hints at some green berry but finishes with spice. $25

2002 Novy Alder Springs Vineyard Merlot - Berry beyond ripe! Port-like aromas of ripe brambleberry and blackberry. Shades of green olive in the mid-palate and some tight tannins are soon overshadowed with jammy, enticing spice. $19

2002 Novy Alder Springs Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon - More jam, this time in the cherry and blackberry. Elegant spice of clove and cinnamon with full, layered fruit and balanced finish which includes more dark berry. $27

FROM THE BARRELS

2004 Novy Van der Kamp Vineyard Pinot Meunier - I have never tasted 100% PM and am used to it as a blending grape for sparkling, so I have no way of knowing what to expect. I was astonished at the initial chemical aromas. The entry into the mouth was sharp and acidic but produced a bright, long candy-like finish. Price upon bottling will be $25.

2004 Siduri Lewis Vineyard Pinot Noir - This was my very first taste of a Pinot from a barrel. I have tasted a lot of other wines from barrels, but never a Pinot, so I was a tad surprised how much of the toasted oak I could perceive. There were also huge candy-like bright fruit but a smooth, velvety finish. Price upon release will be $42

ADAMS TABLE

2003 Siduri Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir - From Garys' and Pozoni vineyards. Dark, elegant raspberry with a soft entry and a long, spicy finish. $32

2003 Siduri Keefer Ranch Vineyard Pinot Noir - Cinnamon spice and cranberry and raspberry fruit great the nose and anticipate a balanced, even taste. Spicy finish punctuates nicely. $52

2003 Siduri Cargasacchi Vineyard Pinot Noir - Classic raspberry bouquet. Tight entry opens in the mouth and blossoms. The finish tightens up a bit. $52

2003 Siduri Olivet Grange Vineyard Pinot Noir - Eucalyptus, anise, and berry aromas predict the full mouth feel and bright mid-palate. Huge, berry finish that keeps going. $34

2003 Siduri Amber Rose Pinot Noir - Named for their daughter, this is a very special and limited release made from seven different vineyards. I don't know if Amber's middle name was "Rose" when she was born, but it is not hard to dismiss the astonishing rose bouquet which was coupled with rich, layered berry tones. Extremeley balanced and elegant and unbeatable with long, floral finish. $65

2003 Novy Judge Framily Grenache - Bright, metallic aromas. Full, sweet entry suggests there might be residual sugar, but there is not! 17.4% alcohol, apparently these grapes were incredibly ripe upon harvest. The pale, orange color hardly presented me for the WOW factor of this amazing wine. I forgot to write specifics of character other than "wow." $25

2003 Novy Santa Lucia Highlands Syrah - Nag Champa spice entices the nose (for those unaware, Nag Champa is an incense burned in temples in India -- a dark, elegant spice that includes scents of sandalwood, cinnamon, clove, jasmine, and more!). Gives way to white pepper and star anise. Long, ripe fruit and more huge spice fill the mouth.

Siduri Winery and Novy Family Family Wines ~ 980 Airway Court, Suite C ~ Santa Rosa ~ CA ~ 95403 ~ 707-578-3882